8) Huron Peak 14,003 ft 4-30-07

Ever since my trip to Mt Belford I have been itching to come back and get Huron Peak done because it is an east facing slope that melts out very early compared to some northern facing peaks Ill be hitting this May. Here is the pic of the east face of Huron from the summit of Mt Belford that got my juices flowing for this area of the Sawatch mountains.

I ended up skiing the line directly off of the summit and straight down the center of the face, which is only the second time it has ever been skied as far as I have been able to find out. In the sport of ski alpinism there is nothing better than climbing and skiing a mountain alone, with nothing more than axe, skis, and sheer determination to bag a relatively obscure and unexplored line in the remote wilderness which was exactly the case today.

With thunderstorms approaching the area at around 1 or 2 pm, I knew that an early start was in order so I departed Boulder at 11pm the night before and made it to the trailhead in the ghost town of Rockdale at 2 am. The very first thing one must do to get on the trail to Cloyses and Lois Lakes is cross a very cold, and in places knee deep, fast moving stream. Not many 14ers have you starting out in sandals, but I didnt want my socks to get wet so I crossed the 50 yard long stream in them and spent the next 20 minutes drying and warming my feet until they were ready for my boots and the start of a 10 mile, 13 hour day.

Cold feet:


On the trail, I made good time to Cloyses lake and by this point was on the snow the rest of the way up. The warm temps of the past week have made for some atrocious snow conditions in the backcountry and even on skis and skins I was sinking through to my knees or waist every step through treeline. This was the most tiring thing I have ever done, and was even more awful on my way back down as I was already tired, out of water and being chased by thunderstorms forming above. I think it is safe to say that I have never yelled the F word louder or more times in my life than today. Sunrise came quickly even with the early start and I took a break at Lois lake to enjoy the fruits of my no sleep night. and watch the sun glisten over its icy surface.


First sun on the face of Huron in the distance:

A nice little rock pitch above Lois lake:
The climbing route coming into view:


Approaching the bottom of the face:
Standing below some giant wet avalanche debris from the day before:

Its no 14er, but Ill be back for this near vertical face and couloir shortly:
Please dont fall on me Mr Cornice, the summit up and out of view along the ridge to the left:
Tired on the summit:

Spectacular views of Ice Mountain and the 3 Apostles:

I am only the 4th person to summit since October before the snow season:


Im so mad this pic came out blurry, looking down my steep ski line:

I ran out of water at the summit, and still had a long walk through deep, unsupportable snow to get back to the car. The storm was moving in fast and I was lucky to make it back to the car just as the first drops of rain and thunder hit. What a day, perfectly timed, a perfect line, and one more mountain down makes me a happy guy. No more mountains until after finals next Thursday, and then its open couloir season in the rockies.